Woke up early and walked thru the streets. What a nice little city. Tiny cobble streets. And espresso everywhere. Had a great continental breakfast of croissant and nutella and ham and cheese sandy. Coffee so strong it hurt which I Like.
We were off to vigne regale winery. Started right off at 10 am tasting 20 plus wines. Sparkling wines with cuvee aurea rose being my favorite. Then many vintages of dolcetto and then a new grape project which only 4 producers are doing-albarossa ( hybrid of nebbiolo and barbera). Many more. Then we went through the winery and barrel sampled, then through the winery and bottling line where sparkling was being bottled (charmat process) which means they dont do it in the bottle itself but in tanks. Then we had a 3 plus hour multicourse lunch with bottle after bottle of wine. Some of my favorites with lunch were fresh greens beans, fresh cantolope so sweet that it was like candy, grilled tenderloin, grilled zucchini, tomato mozz, pickled chicken, raw beef tartare. Then my fv part. Cheese and meat. So many cheeses I couldn't choose. And stinky. Holy shit stinky. And my new love-pork filet wrapped in salami. All cured and sliced and so delicious. Enrico said this was only made here in acqui. I think it was called filet brosilio. So delicious. Then espresso after espresso and dessert wine after dessert wine- moscato, braquetto, grappa, acquavit, and then dessert. Chocolate custard, white pistachi cake, nut cake..wow. Full. Then off to sweat. We went out to vineyards and it was 95 plus out and boy were we ALL sweating to death. We first went and saw albarossa and dolcetto vines. Whiter schist soil with less clay then gavi the day before. Just a couple miles up we saw pinot nero that goes into sparkling production and it was very red soil ( from all the clay). We tried taping today a lot but after that long lunch we had trouble keeping it clean and we were all sweaty pigs so we easily didn't tape well today.
Back to hotel and on the hunt for some amazing italian shoes. Only I found was tons of cankles. Yes cankels why doesnt anyone have ankles in this city?
Then it was time for dinner. Yes more food and wine. Went to curina. Had foccacia and rose and dolcetto with a chill. Had an indigenous grape called rouschette? And it was stinky and flavorful. Had goat cheese, anchovies and red peppers. Then fresh porcinis with homeade pasta and olive oil. Calf liver with onions that melted in the mouth. Fresh goat shoulder so tender and flavorful. Didn't want to stop. Cod with pickled tomatoes. Vegetable hash. Then dessert and chinotto. Fernet popped its head up again too. What a perfect night to eat outside. Bed for me. And my stomach is so full! I feel and extra 3 lbs today for sure. Wow. Tomorrow is another big day.
Everyone is very educated but wild and amazing and everyone has their opiion and is not afraid to voice it which I like. Enrico and lars are amazing hosts and francisco a great driver. What a lucky girl I am.
As a nightcap we all went for a beer (which I didn't have) but they give u a plate of watermelon and apricots to feast on with ur nightcap. I love this tradition.